Sunday, July 09, 2006
We left Querétaro on a high, feeling that we had made friends, located a friendly and interesting school where I could teach English, and had identified possibilities for Myrna, both professional and non-professional. We spent the major part of a day comparing ideas and intentions, exploring what it would really mean to move to Mexico, both economically and emotionally. And we decided to go for it.
We are thinking that, optimistically, we might have the loose ends tied up here, and have visas in-hand by September, although that is just two and a half months away and it does seem very ambitious. But we shall see.
Thursday we had another very comfortable and inexpensive bus ride from Querétaro to Mexico City. The city is big, sprawling, and crowded. Despite many warnings of danger, we saw and felt nothing threatening although, admittedly, we stayed in areas full of street life during the day. I’d made the classic mistake of allowing the very nice and sociable cab driver alter our destination to a wonderful bargain hotel he knew. As a result, we ended up in a slightly abused hotel in the middle of nowhere. We got to the Basilica of the Virgin of Guadelupe and the Zocalo in the afternoon, but decided that we would not go to the Garabaldi Plaza for the evening mariache bands.
The Basilica seems remarkably bereft of the feeling of the Virgin. There is a huge open plaza, and on the left, a large modern round structure where masses are held one after another all day long. It is attractive, but seemed rather spare after all the ornate, rococo and gilded churches we had been seeing everywhere. The old Basilica is another story. It is wonderfully human-scale as grand churches go, dark and ornate. But it has been sinking, so its various columns and arches tilt at alarming angles. it is full of scaffolding and supporting beams to hold it together. The whole basilica slopes to the front, giving a crazy feel to standing or walking in it.
The Zocalo is a huge open plaza, rather like a small version of Tienenman Square in Beijing. Huge church on one side, official buildings with their parade of columns and arches on the other. But the Zocalo is surrounded by intense, crowded street markets and small shops. It includes a several blocks of jewelry shops, and other dedicated centers of activity – concentrated shoe stores, clothes, etc – all interspersed with cafes and things. A great site for exploring and observing.
It was a pity that we hadn’t done more background research on the city, and didn’t have more time there. It is so large, there is so much there that we couldn’t begin to see....
We are thinking that, optimistically, we might have the loose ends tied up here, and have visas in-hand by September, although that is just two and a half months away and it does seem very ambitious. But we shall see.
Thursday we had another very comfortable and inexpensive bus ride from Querétaro to Mexico City. The city is big, sprawling, and crowded. Despite many warnings of danger, we saw and felt nothing threatening although, admittedly, we stayed in areas full of street life during the day. I’d made the classic mistake of allowing the very nice and sociable cab driver alter our destination to a wonderful bargain hotel he knew. As a result, we ended up in a slightly abused hotel in the middle of nowhere. We got to the Basilica of the Virgin of Guadelupe and the Zocalo in the afternoon, but decided that we would not go to the Garabaldi Plaza for the evening mariache bands.
The Basilica seems remarkably bereft of the feeling of the Virgin. There is a huge open plaza, and on the left, a large modern round structure where masses are held one after another all day long. It is attractive, but seemed rather spare after all the ornate, rococo and gilded churches we had been seeing everywhere. The old Basilica is another story. It is wonderfully human-scale as grand churches go, dark and ornate. But it has been sinking, so its various columns and arches tilt at alarming angles. it is full of scaffolding and supporting beams to hold it together. The whole basilica slopes to the front, giving a crazy feel to standing or walking in it.
The Zocalo is a huge open plaza, rather like a small version of Tienenman Square in Beijing. Huge church on one side, official buildings with their parade of columns and arches on the other. But the Zocalo is surrounded by intense, crowded street markets and small shops. It includes a several blocks of jewelry shops, and other dedicated centers of activity – concentrated shoe stores, clothes, etc – all interspersed with cafes and things. A great site for exploring and observing.
It was a pity that we hadn’t done more background research on the city, and didn’t have more time there. It is so large, there is so much there that we couldn’t begin to see....
