Sunday, July 09, 2006
We left Querétaro on a high, feeling that we had made friends, located a friendly and interesting school where I could teach English, and had identified possibilities for Myrna, both professional and non-professional. We spent the major part of a day comparing ideas and intentions, exploring what it would really mean to move to Mexico, both economically and emotionally. And we decided to go for it.
We are thinking that, optimistically, we might have the loose ends tied up here, and have visas in-hand by September, although that is just two and a half months away and it does seem very ambitious. But we shall see.
Thursday we had another very comfortable and inexpensive bus ride from Querétaro to Mexico City. The city is big, sprawling, and crowded. Despite many warnings of danger, we saw and felt nothing threatening although, admittedly, we stayed in areas full of street life during the day. I’d made the classic mistake of allowing the very nice and sociable cab driver alter our destination to a wonderful bargain hotel he knew. As a result, we ended up in a slightly abused hotel in the middle of nowhere. We got to the Basilica of the Virgin of Guadelupe and the Zocalo in the afternoon, but decided that we would not go to the Garabaldi Plaza for the evening mariache bands.
The Basilica seems remarkably bereft of the feeling of the Virgin. There is a huge open plaza, and on the left, a large modern round structure where masses are held one after another all day long. It is attractive, but seemed rather spare after all the ornate, rococo and gilded churches we had been seeing everywhere. The old Basilica is another story. It is wonderfully human-scale as grand churches go, dark and ornate. But it has been sinking, so its various columns and arches tilt at alarming angles. it is full of scaffolding and supporting beams to hold it together. The whole basilica slopes to the front, giving a crazy feel to standing or walking in it.
The Zocalo is a huge open plaza, rather like a small version of Tienenman Square in Beijing. Huge church on one side, official buildings with their parade of columns and arches on the other. But the Zocalo is surrounded by intense, crowded street markets and small shops. It includes a several blocks of jewelry shops, and other dedicated centers of activity – concentrated shoe stores, clothes, etc – all interspersed with cafes and things. A great site for exploring and observing.
It was a pity that we hadn’t done more background research on the city, and didn’t have more time there. It is so large, there is so much there that we couldn’t begin to see....
We are thinking that, optimistically, we might have the loose ends tied up here, and have visas in-hand by September, although that is just two and a half months away and it does seem very ambitious. But we shall see.
Thursday we had another very comfortable and inexpensive bus ride from Querétaro to Mexico City. The city is big, sprawling, and crowded. Despite many warnings of danger, we saw and felt nothing threatening although, admittedly, we stayed in areas full of street life during the day. I’d made the classic mistake of allowing the very nice and sociable cab driver alter our destination to a wonderful bargain hotel he knew. As a result, we ended up in a slightly abused hotel in the middle of nowhere. We got to the Basilica of the Virgin of Guadelupe and the Zocalo in the afternoon, but decided that we would not go to the Garabaldi Plaza for the evening mariache bands.
The Basilica seems remarkably bereft of the feeling of the Virgin. There is a huge open plaza, and on the left, a large modern round structure where masses are held one after another all day long. It is attractive, but seemed rather spare after all the ornate, rococo and gilded churches we had been seeing everywhere. The old Basilica is another story. It is wonderfully human-scale as grand churches go, dark and ornate. But it has been sinking, so its various columns and arches tilt at alarming angles. it is full of scaffolding and supporting beams to hold it together. The whole basilica slopes to the front, giving a crazy feel to standing or walking in it.
The Zocalo is a huge open plaza, rather like a small version of Tienenman Square in Beijing. Huge church on one side, official buildings with their parade of columns and arches on the other. But the Zocalo is surrounded by intense, crowded street markets and small shops. It includes a several blocks of jewelry shops, and other dedicated centers of activity – concentrated shoe stores, clothes, etc – all interspersed with cafes and things. A great site for exploring and observing.
It was a pity that we hadn’t done more background research on the city, and didn’t have more time there. It is so large, there is so much there that we couldn’t begin to see....
Wednesday, July 05, 2006
On Sunday we wanted to take a break from Queretaro, and friends suggested Taquisquiapan as an interesting town, about an hour away by bus. The first task, of course, was to master how to say Taquisquiapan when talking to people from there, who naturally are called Taquis.
T..pan really was lovely. We found beautiful and inexpensive hand-made furniture, rattan, and baskets in a market outside of the town. The town center was quite beautiful and interesting, with lots of tourist-oriented shops. The kinds of things we saw in the market outside town were on sale here at considerably higher prices, along with lots and lots of suivenir kinds of things. Beyond the center was an area of incredibly large, beautiful, expensive homes with things like swimming pools. Still, there was very little English being spoken.
It all felt unreal, this town in the middle of nowhere. We tried to talk to some people about what the economic base was for T..pan. They told us that it was based on exporting baskets and furniture. But as we left town, the kiosk at the bus stop had a sign informing the local residents that they should be friendly to foreigners because 8 OF EVERY 10 PESOS IN T..PAN WAS A RESULT OF THE TOURIST INDUSTRY. It brought home to us that we have been inside a bubble, here in Mexico. We have experienced only safe, beautiful, upscale, welcoming communities. The huge fraction of poor and unemployed Mexicans and their problems are simply not seen in these locations.
I`d been working hard to find a position teaching chemistry or English. Landed an interview with the JFK American School. Very upscale, a prep school for Mexican kids headed to US universities. The woman I talked to was all efficiency, without a drop of humor. They wanted me to come back to teach a demonstration class in chemistry. I asked if I could borrow a textbook to prepare, and was informed that they don't use textbooks, their teachers are expected to do their own preparation. OK. But they haven't gotten back to me as promised, and she hasn't been reachable. I guess that is her form of a brush-off. So it goes.
But then I also talked with the very impressive director of what appears to be the best English Language school here. They will be glad to hire me, but don´t pay very much. The ambiance there is great, though. Hmmmmmmmmm.
T..pan really was lovely. We found beautiful and inexpensive hand-made furniture, rattan, and baskets in a market outside of the town. The town center was quite beautiful and interesting, with lots of tourist-oriented shops. The kinds of things we saw in the market outside town were on sale here at considerably higher prices, along with lots and lots of suivenir kinds of things. Beyond the center was an area of incredibly large, beautiful, expensive homes with things like swimming pools. Still, there was very little English being spoken.
It all felt unreal, this town in the middle of nowhere. We tried to talk to some people about what the economic base was for T..pan. They told us that it was based on exporting baskets and furniture. But as we left town, the kiosk at the bus stop had a sign informing the local residents that they should be friendly to foreigners because 8 OF EVERY 10 PESOS IN T..PAN WAS A RESULT OF THE TOURIST INDUSTRY. It brought home to us that we have been inside a bubble, here in Mexico. We have experienced only safe, beautiful, upscale, welcoming communities. The huge fraction of poor and unemployed Mexicans and their problems are simply not seen in these locations.
I`d been working hard to find a position teaching chemistry or English. Landed an interview with the JFK American School. Very upscale, a prep school for Mexican kids headed to US universities. The woman I talked to was all efficiency, without a drop of humor. They wanted me to come back to teach a demonstration class in chemistry. I asked if I could borrow a textbook to prepare, and was informed that they don't use textbooks, their teachers are expected to do their own preparation. OK. But they haven't gotten back to me as promised, and she hasn't been reachable. I guess that is her form of a brush-off. So it goes.
But then I also talked with the very impressive director of what appears to be the best English Language school here. They will be glad to hire me, but don´t pay very much. The ambiance there is great, though. Hmmmmmmmmm.
