Sunday, December 12, 2004
TRIP TO LONDON
What a gruesome week. Not the worst one of my life by any means, but it does rank right up there, pretty close. I’d kept this daily diary, but if you want to skip the travelogue, the last few lines say it all.
Fri – Dec 3
Uneventful trip. The flight steward on our plane was a really nice guy, and he recommended Earls Court for reasonable accomodations. Tired, I found the first cheap hotel (hostel) outside the subway stop and took it for 2 nights so Myrna would have the London address she needs at customs. But it is a flea bag – well, no bugs but it is simply a ratty dormitory room with construction going on in the hallways, shared with three other guys for 15 pounds – just about $30/night. Everything in London is EXPENSIVE, 2-3x the cost in the US. I would like to get out of here quickly. Arranging to stay for several days was a mistake.
Myrna and I have been sending frantic email messages because American Airlines is denying her ticket, Guatemala to Miami. I’d called Maryam at WorldLink from Dar es Salaam after Myrna’s first frantic message, and Maryam ASSURED me that everything is OK. Tried to call Myrna but couldn’t reach her, so we are dealing only by email.
Sat – Dec 4
Called British Airways and was ASSURED that everything is OK. Got a reference number to call in case Guatemala does not agree somehow, and sent that to Myrna by email. Got Myrna’s number from my computer before the battery went dead, but still was unsuccessful in calling her, either by phone card or by internet connection.
By now I’ve sent 6 urgent emails to Maryam at WorldLink in Mwanza asking for immediate replies to both Myrna and me. Nothing! I’ve bought several international phone cards to try to reach Myrna – tried several internet cafes and a standard, old fashioned interational phone store. Can’t reach her! I hope she gets my emails before she freaks out.
I feel terrible. My toe hurts like crazy. My head hurts from worry. It is only 5:15 pm and feels like 1:00am. It will be terrible if Myrna can’t get on her flight tomorrow.
Fish and chips with a Foster’s at a pub was $16. Money is disappearing like water.
Sun – Dec 5
The email from Myrna this morning was so painful, and angry. It stressed her love and our need to be together – and the REFUSAL of American Airlines to allow her on the flight.
I went to the airport and worked with the Manager of Customer Service, British Airways. She was able to determine that when Myrna’s reservation had been changed to provide a better connection in Miami, notice of payment had not accompanied it. Therefore American Airlines had no record of payment for the ticket – but should have been able to figure that out, she said. So anyhow she fixed that, rebooked Myrna for tomorrow, and arranged to have a representative meet Myrna in Miami to assist her transfer. American Airlines was snippy, but finally confirmed that everything was in order now, and wrote out a request that, if any economy passengers are moved to 1st Class (the flight is overbooked by 20!) she should receive first consideration. That is the only special consideration I could get from them.
It was impossible to pin down whether the error was due to BA, AA or WorldLink, but really, they are ALL culpable in my view.
Otherwise, I moved to a decent (but $80/night, and lucky to get it) hotel, spent a few hours at the British Museum, and took in a London Symphony Orchestra concert at the Barbican Center. Wagner’s Tannheuser, the Brahms Double Concerto and then his Second Symphony. A wonderful evening of familiar music. I needed it!
No email from Myrna on my return to Earls Court. I hope that means she is on the plane. I won’t know until tomorrow. This trip is turning out to be a disaster, in every way. This MUST just be a nightmare. CAN’T be real, can it?
Monday, Dec 6
Jeez, today was Airport Day in Hell. I was at Heathrow from 9:00am until 9:30pm. Anything you want to know about Terminals 1 and 3, I can tell you. For instance, the ONLY telephone in the whole damn airport that works for Guatemala is in T-1, between the newsstand and the gift shoppe. The newsstand beside the Information booth is the ONLY that newsstand sells the Herald Tribune. The cheapest in-airport internet connection is $2.00 for 15 minutes.
The day began as usual, checking for emails from Myrna at the McDonalds. Her message was full of vitriol and called me a thoughtless scoundrel in numerous imaginative ways. I decided to check on her flight status at the airport before responding.
The British Airways people know me by now, so I only had to argue for about 20 minutes before they would confirm to me that Myrna had been a no-show in Guatemala. I finally found the phone that worked for Guatemala and called her, to learn that she had spent all day in church yesterday so had not checked her email. Therefore she didn’t know that I had arranged new tickets for her, although it sounded like she would not have used them anyway. It took NUMEROUS widely-spaced phone calls and email messages to reach her and calm her down, and convince her that I was doing everything I could on my end. But we even had to deal with the Why didn’t you come to Guatemala to Pick Me Up issue yet again.
Finally, she agreed that she would fly on Wednesday, but NOT tomorrow. She was sick, due to nerves and anxiety. The BA Customer Service Rep had already told me that I would have to buy a whole new ticket for her since she was a no-show. I didn’t know what to do about that, but FORTUNATELY the British Airways ticket desk had no problem with rescheduling her flight after I again related the whole sad tale. So the agent there set everything up, assured met that it was all in order and tried to dissuade me from even going to the American Air desk to confirm things there, because there could be no question that everything was in order.
I went to the American desk in the other Terminal anyway. I’d had enough assurances before that fell through. Sure enough, American had no information about any new change. Furthermore it appears that they didn’t even have the information on the prior change, so if Myrna HAD tried to fly yesterday, she could not have been permitted to anyway. That REALLY would have set her off! American couldn’t even revise the ticket with my providing them with the BA authorization and their calling the BA desk - they ended up having to create a whole new ticket of their own. How screwed up and two airlines be? Fortunately we have a whole day tomorrow for Myrna to confirm with the American desk in Guatemala and email me in case there is yet another problem.
So for most of this frustrating day, I just really felt beat up. By Myrna who hadn’t checked for new flight plans, by expensive London for being expensive, by both airlines, by my travel agent, by my painful ingrown toenail that doesn’t like the concrete London sidewalks at all.
I came back to Earls Court tired and hungry, and decided to treat myself to a little Thai restaurant near the subway stop. Wonderful choice. The food was succulent, delicious and authentic. It really took me back to the trip Matthew and I shared, so many years ago. The owner came around and introduced himself and his family. I’d been doing a little sketch of two other patrons until they left in the middle of my opus. The Thai staff saw it though, and wanted their portraits sketched also. So I did that. Got nice compliments and an excellent glass of white wine as a result. And an offer for another glass of wine the next time I drop in there. Which I do think I will do.
It was a very good way to end a day like this one.
Tuesday, Dec 7
I made yet another trip out to Heathrow this morning. It occurred to me that Myrna will be arriving in London at 10:00am on Thursday having spent about 12-14 hours in transit (10 ½ hrs actual flying time). Then we turn around and leave at 6:30pm for another 10 hours in the air. The poor woman – that just doesn’t work. It isn’t enough time to do anything in London, and still it is ‘way too much time to sit in the airport and stew.
So I went back to the ticketing office to British Air to see if we could use their Departure Lounge. I got a definite Maybe. It is up to the Manager On Duty that day. The agent I was working with was pretty discouraging, but after I recounted the sad tale, she wrote “Previously mishandled, do all ppossible to assist” into the file. So I think we have a chance, at least.
Then I went to Trafalgar Square to take some pictures of Lord Nelson on his pedestal. St. Martin in the Fields is also on the Square, and I just missed a concert there. The choir is presenting a program of carols tomorrow night though, so I may still hear more good music. Next I went to the National Portrait Gallery and took a fairly interesting tour with a knowledgeable docent there.
I went back to the same Thai restaurant for dinner. Talked to a woman who was reading the menu outside, to tell her that the place really is excellent. Turned out that Katerina Ring was in London for only one night, on her way from Zambia to Italy. She is an Italian artist, teaching art to students in Zambia for three months, as a volunteer. So we traded stories about Africa and teaching over dinner. Very interesting and entertaining meal.
And that was the day. No message from Myrna today. I hope everything is still on track.
Wednesday, Dec 9
Thursday morning, December 10th.
Couldn’t keep up the diary yesterday. Couldn’t see straight. It was the final cap to this horrid week.
I’d intentionally run myself low on cash, but overdid it a little and had to hit the ATM one more time. But when I went to a cash machine to replenish my wallet, I only got a message that I needed to contact my bank. This happens when there is sudden strange activity on an account that has been largely dormant, as a security system. And surely, with all my withdrawals and many credit card calls to Myrna – plus the calls that didn’t get through, or went flooey – the card activity light must have been flashing in panic. But the problem was compounded because the machine swallowed my card and wouldn’t give it back. So now I was stuck in the middle of London, destitute, without even enough money to make a phone call.
I still had some internet time on the chit I’d bought, so I got on the internet and found the address of the US Embassy (it is on Grosvenor Square) and spent the next hour and a half walking over there. It was a suitably bleak, gray day. Like my mood, at this point. Interesting walk though, from my residential area through the museum area – National History Museum, Virginia and Albert Museum – then the commercial area – Harrods et al – and finally Hyde Park. A troop of mounted guards in full regalia went by, I guess after the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace. Near the museums, I talked to a teacher with a batch of school kids and confirmed that British schools have not used the cane for discipline in many many years.
The embassy people were really quite helpful after I got past the guards who were trying to control the loong queue of people applying for visas. It apparently is not a very uncommon problem. They suggested that I call a friend in the US and have them wire me some money by Western Union, and gave me a phone to use. I couldn’t reach Allegra, so called Paul and he took time from his meeting to do that for me. Twenty minutes later I had some money again.
Spent the afternoon at the mildly interesting Tate Modern Museum, then went to St. Martin in the Fields for a community Christmas program and carol sing. I fully enjoyed that, and I felt the approach of the Christmas season for the first time. It felt good to sing again. I do miss singing with the Choral Arts Society a lot. This was just about the time that Myrna should be getting on the plan in Guatemala, and that felt good too.
I finally came back to the Earls Court station, and went back to the trusty McDonalds to check email messages and hopefully confirm that Myrna was on the way.
She wasn’t.
At long last, at the end, when it finally came down to it, she could not overcome her fears and had called American Airlines to cancel her reservation.
Bingo.
What a gruesome week. Not the worst one of my life by any means, but it does rank right up there, pretty close. I’d kept this daily diary, but if you want to skip the travelogue, the last few lines say it all.
Fri – Dec 3
Uneventful trip. The flight steward on our plane was a really nice guy, and he recommended Earls Court for reasonable accomodations. Tired, I found the first cheap hotel (hostel) outside the subway stop and took it for 2 nights so Myrna would have the London address she needs at customs. But it is a flea bag – well, no bugs but it is simply a ratty dormitory room with construction going on in the hallways, shared with three other guys for 15 pounds – just about $30/night. Everything in London is EXPENSIVE, 2-3x the cost in the US. I would like to get out of here quickly. Arranging to stay for several days was a mistake.
Myrna and I have been sending frantic email messages because American Airlines is denying her ticket, Guatemala to Miami. I’d called Maryam at WorldLink from Dar es Salaam after Myrna’s first frantic message, and Maryam ASSURED me that everything is OK. Tried to call Myrna but couldn’t reach her, so we are dealing only by email.
Sat – Dec 4
Called British Airways and was ASSURED that everything is OK. Got a reference number to call in case Guatemala does not agree somehow, and sent that to Myrna by email. Got Myrna’s number from my computer before the battery went dead, but still was unsuccessful in calling her, either by phone card or by internet connection.
By now I’ve sent 6 urgent emails to Maryam at WorldLink in Mwanza asking for immediate replies to both Myrna and me. Nothing! I’ve bought several international phone cards to try to reach Myrna – tried several internet cafes and a standard, old fashioned interational phone store. Can’t reach her! I hope she gets my emails before she freaks out.
I feel terrible. My toe hurts like crazy. My head hurts from worry. It is only 5:15 pm and feels like 1:00am. It will be terrible if Myrna can’t get on her flight tomorrow.
Fish and chips with a Foster’s at a pub was $16. Money is disappearing like water.
Sun – Dec 5
The email from Myrna this morning was so painful, and angry. It stressed her love and our need to be together – and the REFUSAL of American Airlines to allow her on the flight.
I went to the airport and worked with the Manager of Customer Service, British Airways. She was able to determine that when Myrna’s reservation had been changed to provide a better connection in Miami, notice of payment had not accompanied it. Therefore American Airlines had no record of payment for the ticket – but should have been able to figure that out, she said. So anyhow she fixed that, rebooked Myrna for tomorrow, and arranged to have a representative meet Myrna in Miami to assist her transfer. American Airlines was snippy, but finally confirmed that everything was in order now, and wrote out a request that, if any economy passengers are moved to 1st Class (the flight is overbooked by 20!) she should receive first consideration. That is the only special consideration I could get from them.
It was impossible to pin down whether the error was due to BA, AA or WorldLink, but really, they are ALL culpable in my view.
Otherwise, I moved to a decent (but $80/night, and lucky to get it) hotel, spent a few hours at the British Museum, and took in a London Symphony Orchestra concert at the Barbican Center. Wagner’s Tannheuser, the Brahms Double Concerto and then his Second Symphony. A wonderful evening of familiar music. I needed it!
No email from Myrna on my return to Earls Court. I hope that means she is on the plane. I won’t know until tomorrow. This trip is turning out to be a disaster, in every way. This MUST just be a nightmare. CAN’T be real, can it?
Monday, Dec 6
Jeez, today was Airport Day in Hell. I was at Heathrow from 9:00am until 9:30pm. Anything you want to know about Terminals 1 and 3, I can tell you. For instance, the ONLY telephone in the whole damn airport that works for Guatemala is in T-1, between the newsstand and the gift shoppe. The newsstand beside the Information booth is the ONLY that newsstand sells the Herald Tribune. The cheapest in-airport internet connection is $2.00 for 15 minutes.
The day began as usual, checking for emails from Myrna at the McDonalds. Her message was full of vitriol and called me a thoughtless scoundrel in numerous imaginative ways. I decided to check on her flight status at the airport before responding.
The British Airways people know me by now, so I only had to argue for about 20 minutes before they would confirm to me that Myrna had been a no-show in Guatemala. I finally found the phone that worked for Guatemala and called her, to learn that she had spent all day in church yesterday so had not checked her email. Therefore she didn’t know that I had arranged new tickets for her, although it sounded like she would not have used them anyway. It took NUMEROUS widely-spaced phone calls and email messages to reach her and calm her down, and convince her that I was doing everything I could on my end. But we even had to deal with the Why didn’t you come to Guatemala to Pick Me Up issue yet again.
Finally, she agreed that she would fly on Wednesday, but NOT tomorrow. She was sick, due to nerves and anxiety. The BA Customer Service Rep had already told me that I would have to buy a whole new ticket for her since she was a no-show. I didn’t know what to do about that, but FORTUNATELY the British Airways ticket desk had no problem with rescheduling her flight after I again related the whole sad tale. So the agent there set everything up, assured met that it was all in order and tried to dissuade me from even going to the American Air desk to confirm things there, because there could be no question that everything was in order.
I went to the American desk in the other Terminal anyway. I’d had enough assurances before that fell through. Sure enough, American had no information about any new change. Furthermore it appears that they didn’t even have the information on the prior change, so if Myrna HAD tried to fly yesterday, she could not have been permitted to anyway. That REALLY would have set her off! American couldn’t even revise the ticket with my providing them with the BA authorization and their calling the BA desk - they ended up having to create a whole new ticket of their own. How screwed up and two airlines be? Fortunately we have a whole day tomorrow for Myrna to confirm with the American desk in Guatemala and email me in case there is yet another problem.
So for most of this frustrating day, I just really felt beat up. By Myrna who hadn’t checked for new flight plans, by expensive London for being expensive, by both airlines, by my travel agent, by my painful ingrown toenail that doesn’t like the concrete London sidewalks at all.
I came back to Earls Court tired and hungry, and decided to treat myself to a little Thai restaurant near the subway stop. Wonderful choice. The food was succulent, delicious and authentic. It really took me back to the trip Matthew and I shared, so many years ago. The owner came around and introduced himself and his family. I’d been doing a little sketch of two other patrons until they left in the middle of my opus. The Thai staff saw it though, and wanted their portraits sketched also. So I did that. Got nice compliments and an excellent glass of white wine as a result. And an offer for another glass of wine the next time I drop in there. Which I do think I will do.
It was a very good way to end a day like this one.
Tuesday, Dec 7
I made yet another trip out to Heathrow this morning. It occurred to me that Myrna will be arriving in London at 10:00am on Thursday having spent about 12-14 hours in transit (10 ½ hrs actual flying time). Then we turn around and leave at 6:30pm for another 10 hours in the air. The poor woman – that just doesn’t work. It isn’t enough time to do anything in London, and still it is ‘way too much time to sit in the airport and stew.
So I went back to the ticketing office to British Air to see if we could use their Departure Lounge. I got a definite Maybe. It is up to the Manager On Duty that day. The agent I was working with was pretty discouraging, but after I recounted the sad tale, she wrote “Previously mishandled, do all ppossible to assist” into the file. So I think we have a chance, at least.
Then I went to Trafalgar Square to take some pictures of Lord Nelson on his pedestal. St. Martin in the Fields is also on the Square, and I just missed a concert there. The choir is presenting a program of carols tomorrow night though, so I may still hear more good music. Next I went to the National Portrait Gallery and took a fairly interesting tour with a knowledgeable docent there.
I went back to the same Thai restaurant for dinner. Talked to a woman who was reading the menu outside, to tell her that the place really is excellent. Turned out that Katerina Ring was in London for only one night, on her way from Zambia to Italy. She is an Italian artist, teaching art to students in Zambia for three months, as a volunteer. So we traded stories about Africa and teaching over dinner. Very interesting and entertaining meal.
And that was the day. No message from Myrna today. I hope everything is still on track.
Wednesday, Dec 9
Thursday morning, December 10th.
Couldn’t keep up the diary yesterday. Couldn’t see straight. It was the final cap to this horrid week.
I’d intentionally run myself low on cash, but overdid it a little and had to hit the ATM one more time. But when I went to a cash machine to replenish my wallet, I only got a message that I needed to contact my bank. This happens when there is sudden strange activity on an account that has been largely dormant, as a security system. And surely, with all my withdrawals and many credit card calls to Myrna – plus the calls that didn’t get through, or went flooey – the card activity light must have been flashing in panic. But the problem was compounded because the machine swallowed my card and wouldn’t give it back. So now I was stuck in the middle of London, destitute, without even enough money to make a phone call.
I still had some internet time on the chit I’d bought, so I got on the internet and found the address of the US Embassy (it is on Grosvenor Square) and spent the next hour and a half walking over there. It was a suitably bleak, gray day. Like my mood, at this point. Interesting walk though, from my residential area through the museum area – National History Museum, Virginia and Albert Museum – then the commercial area – Harrods et al – and finally Hyde Park. A troop of mounted guards in full regalia went by, I guess after the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace. Near the museums, I talked to a teacher with a batch of school kids and confirmed that British schools have not used the cane for discipline in many many years.
The embassy people were really quite helpful after I got past the guards who were trying to control the loong queue of people applying for visas. It apparently is not a very uncommon problem. They suggested that I call a friend in the US and have them wire me some money by Western Union, and gave me a phone to use. I couldn’t reach Allegra, so called Paul and he took time from his meeting to do that for me. Twenty minutes later I had some money again.
Spent the afternoon at the mildly interesting Tate Modern Museum, then went to St. Martin in the Fields for a community Christmas program and carol sing. I fully enjoyed that, and I felt the approach of the Christmas season for the first time. It felt good to sing again. I do miss singing with the Choral Arts Society a lot. This was just about the time that Myrna should be getting on the plan in Guatemala, and that felt good too.
I finally came back to the Earls Court station, and went back to the trusty McDonalds to check email messages and hopefully confirm that Myrna was on the way.
She wasn’t.
At long last, at the end, when it finally came down to it, she could not overcome her fears and had called American Airlines to cancel her reservation.
Bingo.
